Photos : Delphine Royer
Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the first look of First Creatures
Chapter 1
After the tumult we went through these past two years, it was hard to return to the catwalk without an opening model that reflected my state of mind: heightened vulnerability. The idea was a doll that stands up, even stronger, after being abused, cut up, sewn back together with a pure, elongated silhouette and cut. A dress inspired by the characters of Tim Burton. It combines the tenderness of a transparent tulle illusion with the strength and protection of leather. A single shade: Nudes. Why? It is the color of the skin of course!
How to open windows on the human body, through cut-outs, without that being translated into an exacerbated sexuality? The obsession of this model is, above all, the human anatomy in its magnificence.
The tones and leathers chosen are analogous to those of the human body. We do not know where is the body, where is the clothing, I call it ghost dresses.
Only the eyelets and the lassages tell us that every being is made of a structure. The workshops and I designed the prototype directly on our wooden mannequin, to get as close as possible to the curves of human anatomy.
French Tradition
One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the cut. This model is a Nude leather inlay, stitched in the purest French tradition. As my grandfather, a tanner, used to explain it to me.
It took three months of painstaking pattern-making, cutting leather to size, inlaying tulle, and stitching to the millimeter for almost 80 meters of hemming.
One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the way in which it will be embodied. It is necessary to find the perfect incarnation of this strong doll, battered by life, but always present fascinating, graceful and intelligent. It could only be Michaela Tomanova, my treasure and my friend. She knows exactly, like an expert, how to wear a garment, show it and give it a soul with great dignity.
Last Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the makeup and the hairstyle. Nicolas Degennes, this genius alchemist, will make up her skin as little as possible with a transparent alabaster effect. Beige and taupe, with a touch of mother-of-pearl, will give mystery to her upper eyelid and a mouth made with a finger will bring her the required humanity.
Jack from Nevile Salon, tells me right away about the droid from Blade Runner, played by Daryl Hannah. His hair will be tousled, powdered, airy. It’s a bit like the dolls you get back after two years in the hands of a very young child.
With this haute couture model opening the First Creatures fashion show. I hope people will understand my love for humanity.
More than a fashion brand, Maison Julien Fournié is a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. Driven by a commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continuously redefines the world of ultra-luxury.
Founded in 2009, the house’s history is woven into its haute couture collections, presented in Paris every January and July during Haute Couture Week. For his debut collection, the young couturier was awarded the Grand Prize for Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010. By his fourth collection in January 2011, Julien Fournié became a guest member of the official calendar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture — a first step towards recognition among the great couturiers.
In January 2017, Maison Julien Fournié was officially classified as Haute Couture. This prestigious label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is held by only a handful of houses — currently ten — that unite the highest creativity in design with the finest standards of garment making.
Since its inception, the house has been invited to present its collections at prestigious events worldwide, bringing the couturier’s vision to luxury clients across the globe. In March 2023, a Julien Fournié gown worn by actress Audrey Fleurot entered the Musée Grévin in Paris. In April 2023, the first retrospective of Julien Fournié’s work was held at SCAD Lacoste, in an exhibition entitled Haute Couture, un point c’est tout.
While honouring tradition, Julien Fournié has forged bold partnerships with high-tech leaders such as Apple and Tencent, digitising the creation, design and personalisation of his haute couture pieces. He stands among the rare couturiers to fully master the new digital tools. Clients are no longer mere spectators of the creative process — they have become active participants in the singular experience of creating a garment, wherever they may be.
Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories, initially conceived to offer the iconic pieces seen on the runway — previously reserved for haute couture clients — to a wider audience.
