Haute Couture Fall Winter 2021/2022
Tuesday, july 6, 2021, Online Film
Julien Fournié presents once again his Haute Couture collection via an online film. After having explored this media for the past two seasons due to the pandemic situation, he is chosing a film this time to match the theme that has inspired his collection.
Merging his lifelong admiration for superheroes and his pioneer spirit in the field of new technologies, Julien Fournié is fascinated by the aesthetics of video games. They have grown more and more popular in the past years and are developing to new levels of creativity.
“Via their avatar in an online video game, the players first test the actions they cannot accomplish in real life. But they continue to play for everything they discover about themselves and how they can relate to other players online, ” says the French couturier.
“The dreamlike dimension of style is best expressed today in this area of video games,” declares Julien Fournié. “Why couldn’t we introduce the refinement, the quality and the elegance of Haute Couture as a new vocabulary in the fascinating frame of online games? They are opening up gateways to new worlds for us to conquer. “
At a time when fashion trends are directing ready-to-wear brands to trivialize their looks, Julien Fournié suggests once again to “Find Your Legend” using a completely different approach. This time, the couturier achieves it through the 16 archetypal characters who embody the values he cherishes for his eponymous house.
One of his legends, for instance, called The Ballerina, embodies vulnerability, a quality dear to Julien Fournié who declares: “Only when you accept your vulnerability, can you really become stronger”. The Spy, another character in this video, represents strategy, discreet charm and intelligence. The Empress, expresses authority, glamour and power…
To embody each of these 16 characters, Julien Fournié has included his usual models and muses Michaela Tomanova and Angeliki Tsionou, but also two film actresses and one male athlete. French film actress Audrey Fleurot plays The Empress, the boxer Guillaume Hauet unleashes his power as The Bouncer and the Belgian actress Déborah François transforms into The Fury, in the hands of Julien Fournié, who evolves himself into ” The Wizard”.
Transformable looks, precious and raw materials, embroidery and feathers, new day bags and rucksacks, are combined to highlight a group of completely different personalities who come together to give life to the Julien Fournié essential tribe, his “First Squad”. This is where each person alchemizes with their neo-avatar to give maximum impact to their style and showcase their true identity.
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2021
Tuesday, January 26, 2021, Online Film
Julien Fournié presents his Haute Couture collection via a new form of expression for a fashion designer: for the first time, he is directing his first movie entitled, “First Storm.”
“In the post Me Too, post Black Lives Matter era, in the middle of a world health crisis, I consider it my duty as a couturier, to conjure up an enchanted vision, full of magic and imagination,” declares the founder of the House which, since its inception, has consistently supported feminists and diversity. “It is about doing everything within our power to avoid the totalitarianism of gloom.”
In this movie, Julien Fournié introduces three young women into contemporary, dreamlike and glamorous surroundings. As if drawn by a helter-skelter or a roller coaster at an amusement park, they explore five different settings. In each of them, they experience a new test, like the characters in a fairy tale. Immersed in the fashion designer’s fetish worlds and under his secret guidance, they will find their own legend and cast a new light on their true personality.
Constantly trying to stretch proportions on the female body thanks to an essentialized cut, Julien Fournié is focusing on sleeve architecture, sharp bust sculpture, and movement in chiffon dresses and tulle petticoats.
Elongating women’s bodies, Julien Fournié’s designs favor expert needlework, particularly with inlays, realized in semi-sheer materials here, in feathers there, in embroideries everywhere. His designs combine lightness and refinement, with tight pleats, ruffles of chiffon and layers of transparency.
Both film and collection aim to re-enchant the vision of women.
A lifelong cinema lover, the couturier immerses his muses into symbolic worlds, with a nod and a wink to all the film directors he respects and admires, from Georges Méliès to Quentin Tarantino, including Jacques Demy.
Haute Couture Fall Winter 2020/2021
Tuesday, July 1st, 2020, Online Film
The Real Nature of Haute Couture
Julien Fournié explains his understanding of the Haute Couture label and how he translates it in every piece he makes.
A Haute Couture piece is the ultimate luxury level, both in terms of design and craftsmanship quality. The Haute Couture designation is often used in illegitimate ways nowadays.
For this particular season, when there is no actual Haute Couture runway show, Julien Fournié has chosen to invite you inside his house’s core values. Exclusivity, authenticity, creative freedom, innovative techniques paired to traditional craftsmanship, create together the Haute Couture ecosystem.
The exclusive character of every design under the Julien Fournié name is very strict: Julien Fournié NEVER repeats the same design for two customers. Not even when a customer orders a look from a particular collection. Not even if customers based on different continents ask for the same design. Once you buy it, you are the only person in the world to own it.
The authentic nature of the design is guaranteed here by the traditional steps of Haute Couture: meeting the customer in an initial face-to-face conversation about her expectations, starting from a sketch made for one person only, working on garment volume on the mannequin, developing the best fabrics with the top weavers of natural fibers in Europe, sketching a specific print, collaborating with the very best craftsmen in France, constantly training our team of expert seamstresses.
In his eponymous house, the Couture house he has founded and fully controls, Julien Fournié is feeling completely free to decide what he wants to do and how he wants to achieve it. This freedom and independence of thought are paramount for a Haute Couture house. Thus, Julien Fournié stands behind each and every project in his realm and each creative impulse follows his intuition only.
Women are used to spot clothes in shops, try them on and then decide on acquiring them. With the Haute Couture approach, the process is entirely different.
You see first a sketch of the imagined look, in a first fitting, you place your order and then try on a prototype made in a plain and simple white fabric. From the original sketch, the atelier has given its volume and architecture to the piece. With this first fitting, Julien Fournié is checking the perfect fit for each silhouette. Only then, together with the customer, does Julien Fournié choose the right fabric, its texture, its feel and, of course, its precise color, the exact fittings, the magic embellishments.
Haute Couture takes time between the first sketch and the final fitting, of course, but when you are buying a Haute Couture piece, you are not simply buying a garment. What you are buying is also an experience, an adventure in an attempt to fully express your unique personality in a garment made precisely at your measurements and designed only for you.
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2020
Tuesday January 21, 2020 runway show
Constantly trying to stretch proportionsJulien Fournié is inspired by great female adventurers who go through the history of humanity and female emancipation.
Explorers, ethologists or archaeologists, they prove themselves capable of roaming jungles and dancing waltzes. Their curiosity about the world, their thirst for independence and the quest for their own truth include the courage of disobeying social codes.
Whether they are discovering South America’s pre-Columbian civilizations, Africa’s scriptless tribes or the Sahara’s Berber and Tuareg arts, they give up nothing and neither reject the society from which they come, nor contradict the worlds they are exploring. Far from the masculine values that led to predation, via colonizing or evangelizing, their conquests advocate mutual discovery, acceptance of differences, mutual aid, sometimes at the cost of their own life.
In addition to the expedition they have planned, organized and financed, they are constantly seeking the hidden meaning of the world, beyond appearances, genders and borders. Combining phlegm, enthusiasm and compassion, they adapt to everything, collect jewelry, tools, pottery, let nature transform them, and blend into the landscape without losing any panache.
Mastering the cut, the French couturier builds statement silhouettes around more casual attire, adorned with talisman-like embroideries or amulets as if collected from previous encounters and locations. Shapes are often structured with multiple strap belts, including bags or bandoliers which symbolize, for the discoverers of new territories, together with braid, an essential equipment.
Far from any precise identification with a single geographic or ethnic origin, these ladies mix the elegance from their original lifestyle together with the fantastic treasures they have found on the way, in a personal interpretation, as far from communitarian ardor as from any indoctrinating spirit.
“Haute Couture and female explorers do share a taste for experience, pragmatism and encounters which established dogmas hardly encourage and often despise,” says Julien Fournié. “I am convinced that the search for freedom is our common point in order to imagine the world off the marketing of fame’s overbeaten track, as a way to save the planet and mankind.”
Haute Couture Fall Winter 2019/2020
Tuesday, July 2nd 2019 runway show
On the occasion of his House’s tenth anniversary, Julien Fournié pays tribute to women who derogate, transform and transcend the social codes which were designed to enclose their gender. Since the dawn of time, the most terrible spell was always cast on these ladies. When in grade of overcoming the limits which patriarchal cultures had imposed on them, female healers, alchemists or scholars, were systematically labeled evil, accused of witchcraft and burnt at the stake.
“I have always found witches more stimulating than repulsive,” says Julien Fournié. “Women called by that name do cultivate independence, possess a sense of adventure and stimulate the imagination, opening up to a magical world.”
Mastering every trick in the art of the cut, the French grand couturier modernizes into evil beauties the mythical silhouettes of witches, poisoners, gothic novels dames and film noir stars alike. High collar, embroidered shirtfronts on pleated chiffon blouses, are paired with long Edwardian skirts. In jackets, coats and “trompe-l’oeil“ coat dresses, the cut borrows from the military vocabulary the impeccable padded shoulders and apparent buttoning on the top.
From the waistline downwards, fabric blooms into folded “basques” on jackets, and blossoms, in hemlines at ankle level, to allow marching with the right magnitude. A jacket of knitted yarn mimics fur and mixes fringes with spikes to underline its wild animal aspect. Softened to perfection, precious leathers (python, alligator) sculpt busts and waistlines in black or midnight blue, unless they cinch them with graded animal scales in the tones of auroras. Ravens and other birds of misfortune are summoned on headpieces, bonnet and “capeline”, via embroidered feathers, also woven in a remarkable version of the House’s iconic bag. The signature t-strap mules are decorated for the season with a contrasting tiara pattern on their tip.
“Haute Couture and magic do share a taste for the accumulated experience and the knacks of the trade. Official education often underrates and depreciates this kind of knowledge,” says Julien Fournié. “I am convinced that combining the empirical and the innovative is the best way to save nature, humanity, and change the world so that the free exultation of minds and bodies can never be associated again with devilish Sabbaths.”
Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019
Tuesday, January 22, 2019 runway show
In the Atlantic, between three continents, the lunar landscapes of Lanzarote island have inspired Julien Fournié. Between desert and tropics, sirocco and trade winds, prodigious algae and volcanic lichens, the French couturier enforces Nature’s radical choices, operated on this peculiar island which has become a biosphere reserve. Minerals -dark castings of basalt, bright fine sands brought from the Sahara by the wind- form the contrasting basis of the season’s color palette, enhanced by a cactus green, a bougainvillea pink and the blue of a saturated sky, as reflected in the natural pool hidden in an open cave. Stimulated by the paths trodden earlier by the artist-architect Cesar Manrique to celebrate creative actions in harmony with the ecosystem,
Julien Fournié delivers a collection made with fabrics exclusively composed with natural fibers. Every aspect in the French grand couturier’s collection breathes regained well-being, harmony and self-esteem. The sensuality of silk drape, the soft touch of chiffon, the mystery of moire in geological fuses of gray are underlined with asymmetric drapings and straight pleats, to better mark body curves and either frame or caress bare skin. With fabrics molded close over shoulders, bust and waist, amplitudes are developing only from the hips to a hemline just above the ankle… cinched by the strap of the House’s signature T-bar heels.
Precious leathers (eel, reindeer, python) add to the voluptuousness of the collection. Ties and metalwork cinch the waistline, harness the shoulders, and occasionally strap the neck. Unusual cacti and chlorophyte algae are embroidered in luxurious embellishments. The lightness of a silk georgette flies in a scarf dress, whitewashed as with chalk, and adorned with the print designed by Julien Fournié to evoke the volcanic island, its strong colors, its singular palms.
A luxurious and casual chic spirit rules on the runway, the same one as in the parties organized in the 1960s by Cesar Manrique and Omar Sharif for their Hollywood friends, whom they welcomed for an exceptional leisure time in the incredible suites of decorated caves which they were using as mansions. By combining telluric energy, summer atmosphere and casual elegance, “First Bliss” showcases a wardrobe conducive to pampering, toning, invigorating the summer of 2019 with self-respect and sincere compliance with the biophysical environment around.
Haute Couture Fall Winter 2018/2019
July 2018 runway show
Constantly in search of a style to allow ladies to best express their emotions, Julien Fournié signs his “First Crime” Haute Couture collection in 33 elegantly strict looks inspired by the suspense masters’ muses (Agatha Christie, Alfred Hitchcock, Paul Verhoeven). But how would a “profiler” analyze the motives of this “serial killer” of a couturier who hits with his aesthetics ?
First, he would notice the sculptural drapings, discover the hidden cuts, note the scalpel adjusted busts. He would investigate the secrets in the sleeves, examine the waist straps, the “basques” that accompany each movement. He would record the vertiginous asymmetries created by bias inlays and drapings. A sheath slashed by a cut on the side of the chest would intrigue him.
Julien Fournié’s favorite weapon remains the cut. It structures the garment and ensures modesty and pace. Precious leathers (pecari for size, reindeer for touch and nobility) can compose dresses as well as trousers. The French couturier’s customers dare it all l: for example, the panther total look printed on leather in a dress, a handbag, gloves and t-strap heels.
In a reconstructed pose, Julien Fournié’s fans are facing their own issues with weapons that belong only to them. By leading them to sublimate their impulses in a ruby, duck-blue, or fawn tones palette, the designer leads them into a purity of mohair, silk drape and chiffon which leaves no room for commonness or complacency. Like the incredible feathered black dress which opens the show, each piece pays tribute to the discreet handwork of Paris ateliers. Here, the embroidery in matte thread is devouring sequins, veils are dimming out sparkling shines, jacquards are revealing a special collaboration with the best weavers.
But who or what is the designer trying to strangle ? First of all, self-negligence, say his customers, and also the easiest possible solution declare his assistants, as well as the unbearable in-your-face shine confess his friends. “Suspense is like a woman,” said Alfred Hitchcock. “The more left to the imagination, the more the excitement.” Julien Fournié translates it well into unique garments.