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haute couture outfit's secrets

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the first look of First Creatures

Chapter 1

After the tumult we went through these past two years, it was hard to return to the catwalk without an opening model that reflected my state of mind: heightened vulnerability. The idea was a doll that stands up, even stronger, after being abused, cut up, sewn back together with a pure, elongated silhouette and cut. A dress inspired by the characters of Tim Burton. It combines the tenderness of a transparent tulle illusion with the strength and protection of leather. A single shade: Nudes. Why? It is the color of the skin of course!

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
The ideation of Julien Fournié’s sketch realized on IPad Pro


How to open windows on the human body, through cut-outs, without that being translated into an exacerbated sexuality? The obsession of this model is, above all, the human anatomy in its magnificence.

Ghost dress

The tones and leathers chosen are analogous to those of the human body. We do not know where is the body, where is the clothing, I call it ghost dresses.

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
Illustration : Julien Fournié

Only the eyelets and the lassages tell us that every being is made of a structure. The workshops and I designed the prototype directly on our wooden mannequin, to get as close as possible to the curves of human anatomy. 

French Tradition

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the cut. This model is a Nude leather inlay, stitched in the purest French tradition. As my grandfather, a tanner, used to explain it to me. 

It took three months of painstaking pattern-making, cutting leather to size, inlaying tulle, and stitching to the millimeter for almost 80 meters of hemming. 

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
Photo : Maison Julien Fournié

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the way in which it will be embodied. It is necessary to find the perfect incarnation of this strong doll, battered by life, but always present fascinating, graceful and intelligent. It could only be Michaela Tomanova, my treasure and my friend. She knows exactly, like an expert, how to wear a garment, show it and give it a soul with great dignity.

les secrets d'un modèle de haute couture
Michaela Tomanova and Julien Fournié backstage Photo : Brioda Savy

Last Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the makeup and the hairstyle. Nicolas Degennes, this genius alchemist, will make up her skin as little as possible with a transparent alabaster effect. Beige and taupe, with a touch of mother-of-pearl, will give mystery to her upper eyelid and a mouth made with a finger will bring her the required humanity. 

Jack from Nevile Salon, tells me right away about the droid from Blade Runner, played by Daryl Hannah. His hair will be tousled, powdered, airy. It’s a bit like the dolls you get back after two years in the hands of a very young child.

With this model opening the First Creatures fashion show. I hope people will understand my love for humanity.

Photos : Delphine Royer

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