Categories
HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Skin deep

Find Your Legend

Photos : Delphine Royer

haute couture outfit's secrets

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the first look of First Creatures

Chapter 1

After the tumult we went through these past two years, it was hard to return to the catwalk without an opening model that reflected my state of mind: heightened vulnerability. The idea was a doll that stands up, even stronger, after being abused, cut up, sewn back together with a pure, elongated silhouette and cut. A dress inspired by the characters of Tim Burton. It combines the tenderness of a transparent tulle illusion with the strength and protection of leather. A single shade: Nudes. Why? It is the color of the skin of course!

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
The ideation of Julien Fournié’s sketch of the haute couture dress realized on IPad Pro

 

How to open windows on the human body, through cut-outs, without that being translated into an exacerbated sexuality? The obsession of this model is, above all, the human anatomy in its magnificence.

The tones and leathers chosen are analogous to those of the human body. We do not know where is the body, where is the clothing, I call it ghost dresses.

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
Illustration : Julien Fournié

Only the eyelets and the lassages tell us that every being is made of a structure. The workshops and I designed the prototype directly on our wooden mannequin, to get as close as possible to the curves of human anatomy. 

French Tradition

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the cut. This model is a Nude leather inlay, stitched in the purest French tradition. As my grandfather, a tanner, used to explain it to me. 

It took three months of painstaking pattern-making, cutting leather to size, inlaying tulle, and stitching to the millimeter for almost 80 meters of hemming. 

Haute Couture outfit's secrets
The Haute Couture dress in the workshop

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the way in which it will be embodied. It is necessary to find the perfect incarnation of this strong doll, battered by life, but always present fascinating, graceful and intelligent. It could only be Michaela Tomanova, my treasure and my friend. She knows exactly, like an expert, how to wear a garment, show it and give it a soul with great dignity.

les secrets d'un modèle de haute couture
Michaela Tomanova and Julien Fournié backstage Photo : Brioda Savy

Last Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the makeup and the hairstyle. Nicolas Degennes, this genius alchemist, will make up her skin as little as possible with a transparent alabaster effect. Beige and taupe, with a touch of mother-of-pearl, will give mystery to her upper eyelid and a mouth made with a finger will bring her the required humanity. 

Jack from Nevile Salon, tells me right away about the droid from Blade Runner, played by Daryl Hannah. His hair will be tousled, powdered, airy. It’s a bit like the dolls you get back after two years in the hands of a very young child.

With this haute couture model opening the First Creatures fashion show. I hope people will understand my love for humanity.

More than a fashion brand, Maison Julien Fournié is a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With a commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continues to redefine the world of ultra-luxury.

Julien Fournié was founded in 2009.

The history of the house is reflected in its collections, which are presented in Paris every January and July during Haute Couture Week.

For his first collection, the young couturier was awarded the Grand Prize for Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010.

For his fourth collection, in January 2011, Julien Fournié became a “guest member” of the official calendar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture catwalk shows. This was the first step towards recognizing Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of the great couturiers.

In January 2017, the Julien Fournié house was officially classified as “Haute Couture”. This label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is awarded to a few houses (only ten prestigious Haute Couture houses are currently on this list) that combine the best creativity in design and the highest quality in garment making.

Since its inception, Julien Fournié has also had the honor of being invited to show its collections at prestigious events abroad, in order to bring the couturier’s style to luxury clients from all over the world.

In March 2023, a Julien Fournié dress, worn by the actress Audrey Fleurot, entered the Grévin Museum in Paris.

In April 2023, the first retrospective of Julien Fournié’s work will be held at SCAD Lacoste in an exhibition entitled “Haute Couture un point c’est tout”.

While respecting tradition, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Apple and Tencent.

Julien Fournié has thus been able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his haute couture pieces. He is one of the few haute couture designers to master the new digital tools.

Long regarded as a survivor of a bygone era, the haute couture market has experienced a new boom in recent years. Thanks to new technologies, Julien Fournié has been able to establish direct and unique means of communication with his clients. It is no longer a question of sending a sketch to the client for approval, as was the case in the past.

Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are no longer mere spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a garment wherever they are.

Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. Initially, the idea was to offer handbags that could be seen in Julien Fournié shows and were previously reserved for haute couture customers.