Photos : Delphine Royer
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapter 2
Haute Couture outfit’s secrets: the 14 looks of First Creatures
I’ve been fantasizing about Captain Marvel for a very long time, this superheroine with super powers from the infinite.
It all started with a click of the fabric.
When Emmanuelle Canot, from Sfate & Combier, presented me with a preview of a new technical weaving called “laser game”, everything changed in my head. For the first time, traditional weavers from Lyon, partners of the Maison Julien Fournié, were projecting their materials into the future.
This weaving mixes six different shades of lurex on a silk base, which gives this material the glitter of stars and the transformation of colors visible on beetle wings. This light, multiverse, and changing weave is not an embroidery. “It’s a game changer.
Very quickly, the simplicity of the line of the dress imposed itself. It was the material that I had to put forward. I wanted to create a visual shock as if a black hole had absorbed all the light, so I decided to combine another fabric on this dress: a deep black silk and viscose jersey, with a “manta ray” cut.
Ray of light
Finally, this dress is just a ray of light, emphasizing the feminine curves. An illusion tulle neckline, a nod to the Star Trek star, and everything is said. The mittens sleeves lengthen the line even more. As for the Aeolus train, it’s like a beacon chasing the silhouette.
It takes two months of high-precision weaving on Sfate & Combier machines to create a lurex jacquard. The workshop in agitation, in front of such a fabric, did a remarkable job to assemble a dry and shiny material with a soft and easily deformable jersey.
It is Madame Jacqueline, the first of the Atelier, who finds the solution for the fabrication of the mystery neckline I was dreaming of. During a peregrination, I stumbled upon a vintage stock of crystals exactly in the colors of the “laser game”. I couldn’t help but use them to highlight the shine of the neckline.
Electric and nonchalant
A flash of inspiration! It could not have been Sally Diagne. Tall, athletic, shouldered, always focused, this young woman is perfect to perform on the podium, with her electric and nonchalant attitude of her generation.
Hello Nicolas? What are we doing with this crazy fabric? He answers me, as usual, with a lot of mystery, let me do it. Mister Mystery is going to concoct for me exactly the light of the dress in a new texture for Sally’s mouth.
It only took one word spoken to Jack from the Neville salon to know Alien. This English genius in his creative effervescence, while my phone cut every five minutes, threw me: Prometeus beep, Godess of Egypt beep, Tentacles beep, and futurism beep. A sublime hair sculpture
On D-Day, ready to go on the catwalk, Sally impresses me and her black shaded eyes remind me of her benevolence and determination. She is ready.
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Handbags, tote bags, and clutches created by Julien Fournié
More than a fashion brand, Maison Julien Fournié is a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. Driven by a commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continuously redefines the world of ultra-luxury.
Founded in 2009, the house’s history is woven into its haute couture collections, presented in Paris every January and July during Haute Couture Week. For his debut collection, the young couturier was awarded the Grand Prize for Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010. By his fourth collection in January 2011, Julien Fournié became a guest member of the official calendar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture — a first step towards recognition among the great couturiers.
In January 2017, Maison Julien Fournié was officially classified as Haute Couture. This prestigious label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is held by only a handful of houses — currently ten — that unite the highest creativity in design with the finest standards of garment making.
Since its inception, the house has been invited to present its collections at prestigious events worldwide, bringing the couturier’s vision to luxury clients across the globe. In March 2023, a Julien Fournié gown worn by actress Audrey Fleurot entered the Musée Grévin in Paris. In April 2023, the first retrospective of Julien Fournié’s work was held at SCAD Lacoste, in an exhibition entitled Haute Couture, un point c’est tout.
While honouring tradition, Julien Fournié has forged bold partnerships with high-tech leaders such as Apple and Tencent, digitising the creation, design and personalisation of his haute couture pieces. He stands among the rare couturiers to fully master the new digital tools. Clients are no longer mere spectators of the creative process — they have become active participants in the singular experience of creating a garment, wherever they may be.
Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories, initially conceived to offer the iconic pieces seen on the runway — previously reserved for haute couture clients — to a wider audience.
