The Magie Noire dress: a masterpiece of technicality

haute couture secrets
Chapter 12

Haute Couture dress’ secrets : Black Magic: a masterpiece of technicality

Two and a half months of work to finally get three minutes on a podium.

It’s always frustrating… 

Our “Secret of an Haute Couture model” section aims to tell you in detail each crucial step of the making of an Haute Couture dress. 

We often start with one of my designs. This is the classic process of creating a model. But sometimes, it is the intrinsic nature of the fabric that makes the dress. It is in these cases that the magic of Haute Couture takes on its full meaning in our workshops.

For the Magie Noire Haute Couture dress, we first draped the perfectly transparent nude illusion tulle embroidered with black sequins and scratches on a wooden mannequin. 

The first obsession was to adjust the edged patterns to make the seams disappear as if by magic. 

Building a sheath sleeve and boat neckline in embroidered tulle was no small task. 

haute couture dress
A detail of the Haute Couture dress

But it is when the desire to drape this sheath with a mysterious black tulle that all the mastery of the art of the hand takes its meaning. 

Asymmetrical draping, spiral multiplies and English seams will be the basis of this ghostly ball gown. 

Jean-Paul and Jacqueline cried out at the same time: “but this is a new ghost dress”. 

New ghost dress

Initially, when I opened the house in 2009, every season a wonderful ghost dress was made. For me, ghost dresses are transparent and light dresses, the making of which you can’t understand. 

I still have an obsession with “how it works.” 

To meditate on an audience and propose innovation in the Haute Couture catwalk is not an easy thing. 

The ghost dresses are recognized by our clients and remain a signature of the House.

Finally, on the anatomical cutout of the Magie Noire Haute Couture dress, at the hip level, we will hand edge, within our workshops, vintage sculpted motifs from the ’30s in jet (squares, hexagons, microsequins, and small spikes like sea urchins…). 

The fascinating haute couture dress by its transparency lets guess the whole silhouette of the wearer without ever showing anything. 

It is a breath, it is a spidery architecture and it is a masterpiece of technicality. 

Photos : Delphine Royer

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Founded in 2009 by the couturier Julien Fournié, Julien Fournié Haute Couture House has become a “guest member” in the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows in 2011. This marked a first step in aknowledging Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of grand couturiers. With this new title, Julien Fournié has put on the runway for the first time in the history of Haute Couture, a collection only worn by black models.

In January 2017, the Julien Fournié House was officially classified as “Haute Couture”. The Haute Couture label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is given to a few houses (only sixteen prestigious names on this list today) which are combining the best of creativity in design and the utmost quality in garment making.

While respecting the tradition of Haute Couture, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Dassault Systèmes Apple and Tencent.

Julien Fournié was thus able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his Haute Couture pieces. He is one of the rare designers of Haute Couture to master the new digital tools. Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are not just spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a Haute Couture garment wherever they are.

Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. At first, the idea was to offer handbags seen in Julien Fournié Haute Couture shows and reserved, until then, for Haute Couture clients.

Since then, Julien Fournié has created new bags ranging from evening clutches to tote bags and handbags becoming one of the most exclusive luxury handbags brands.

These designer bags are made in the purest respect of artisanal traditions.

For the moment, these new luxury bags are exclusively available on the online boutique of the House.

In 2022, Julien Fournié has launched few pieces of jewelry sold on his online store.