Categories
BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE JULIEN FOURNIÉ HOUSE

The Magie Noire dress: a masterpiece of technicality

haute couture secrets
Chapter 12

Haute Couture dress’ secrets : Black Magic: a masterpiece of technicality

Two and a half months of work to finally get three minutes on a podium.

It’s always frustrating… 

Our “Secret of an Haute Couture model” section aims to tell you in detail each crucial step of the making of an Haute Couture dress. 

We often start with one of my designs. This is the classic process of creating a model. But sometimes, it is the intrinsic nature of the fabric that makes the dress. It is in these cases that the magic of Haute Couture takes on its full meaning in our workshops.

For the Magie Noire Haute Couture dress, we first draped the perfectly transparent nude illusion tulle embroidered with black sequins and scratches on a wooden mannequin. 

The first obsession was to adjust the edged patterns to make the seams disappear as if by magic. 

Building a sheath sleeve and boat neckline in embroidered tulle was no small task. 

haute couture dress
A detail of the Haute Couture dress

But it is when the desire to drape this sheath with a mysterious black tulle that all the mastery of the art of the hand takes its meaning. 

Asymmetrical draping, spiral multiplies and English seams will be the basis of this ghostly ball gown. 

Jean-Paul and Jacqueline cried out at the same time: “but this is a new ghost dress”. 

New ghost dress

Initially, when I opened the house in 2009, every season a wonderful ghost dress was made. For me, ghost dresses are transparent and light dresses, the making of which you can’t understand. 

I still have an obsession with “how it works.” 

To meditate on an audience and propose innovation in the Haute Couture catwalk is not an easy thing. 

The ghost dresses are recognized by our clients and remain a signature of the House.

Finally, on the anatomical cutout of the Magie Noire Haute Couture dress, at the hip level, we will hand edge, within our workshops, vintage sculpted motifs from the ’30s in jet (squares, hexagons, microsequins, and small spikes like sea urchins…). 

The fascinating haute couture dress by its transparency lets guess the whole silhouette of the wearer without ever showing anything. 

It is a breath, it is a spidery architecture and it is a masterpiece of technicality. 

Photos : Delphine Royer

Read : The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits

  • The “Baby doll” Haute Couture dress
    The  “Baby doll” Haute Couture dress

    Chapiter 18 The secrets of the Baby Doll Haute Couture dress Angeliki Tsionou is “the” girl in the First Shield Haute Couture collection, combining the fragility of a wax doll, the strength of a dragon and Parisian elegance.  With her very ’50s styled doe eye, designed for her by Nicolas Degennes, the “little dress” Angeliki…

    See

  • “This dress is too long!”, the secrets of the second look from the First Shield Haute Couture collection.
    “This dress is too long!”, the secrets of the second look from the First Shield Haute Couture collection.

    Chapter 17 The secrets of the Trompe-l’œil Haute Couture dress from the First Shield collection Vidéo : Maissanne Fritz for Julien Fournié Haute Couture Transforming, innovating, unraveling mysteries, finding the right proportions-that’s what Haute Couture is all about. And that’s what fittings are for. Camille Tanne, this season’s newcomer, has delicious copper legs that we…

    See

  • Dark Barbie
    Dark Barbie

    Chapter 16 The secrets of the first look of the First Shield Haute Couture collection Vidéo : Maissanne Fritz for Julien Fournié Haute Couture Elza Matiz is my Margot Robbie of the catwalk. Elza will be the incarnation of the emancipated Dark Barbie of the First Shield Haute Couture collection. Boyish figure With her endless…

    See

See the film

Read also
  • Yang Zi in Julien Fournié Haute Couture
    Yang Zi in Julien Fournié Haute Couture

    Actress Yang Zi in Julien Fournié Haute Couture. A dress from The First Vamps Collection for Yang ZI Actress Yang Zi wore a dress from the First Vamps Haute Couture Collection. Julien Fournié Haute Couture House Maison Julien Fournié is more than a fashion brand, it’s a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With […]

    See

  • Paris FW: Julien Fournié Haute Couture Automne-Hiver 2024-2025 “Last Queen”
    Paris FW: Julien Fournié Haute Couture Automne-Hiver 2024-2025 “Last Queen”

    Haute Couture Julien Fournié’s recent Haute Couture fashion show at the Paris-based Musée Grévin is nothing short of spectacular, offering a tribute to Marie-Antoinette, the last queen of France. Julien Fournié aimed to restore the splendor of her life in Versailles and highlight her status as a fashion icon. The highlight of the show is […]

    See

  • Haute Couture FW24 : The Bridgerton Effect
    Haute Couture FW24 : The Bridgerton Effect

    Influenced by the Bridgerton TV Show During the recent Haute Couture FW24 Week, it seemed that, whether by design, or just subliminally, designers were influenced by the Bridgerton TV show and the Regency period in general. In the Bridgerton TV series, Queen Charlotte still dresses in the manner of Marie-Antoinette. It’s said that it reflects […]

    See

  • Last Queen the new Haute Couture collection
    Last Queen the new Haute Couture collection

    Last Queen Haute Couture collection Tuesday, June 25, 2024 presentation Grévin Wax Museum For His new Haute Couture Collection, Julien Fournié pays tribute to Marie-Antoinette, the last queen of France, at the Paris-based Musée Grévin.She is the undisputed initiator of all Haute Couture. “Whatever one thinks about her role in History,. Marie-Antoinette was a model […]

    See

  • Bibi Zhou (Zhou Bichang) in Julien Fournié Haute Couture
    Bibi Zhou (Zhou Bichang) in Julien Fournié Haute Couture

    Bibi Zhou (Zhou Bichang) was in Julien Fournié Haute Couture. A dress from from the Haute Couture Collection First Vamps for Bibi Zhou (Zhou Bichang) Bibi Zhou (Zhou Bichang) wore a Victorian-inspired trompe l’oeil dress with gigot sleeves and giant bow, in old silver lurex tafetas, embellished with a 19th-century broken mirror brooch from the […]

    See

Maison Julien Fournié is more than a fashion brand, it’s a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With its commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continues to redefine the world of Haute Couture and luxury.

Founded in 2009 by Julien Fournié, Maison Julien Fournié creates custom-made haute couture garments for its clients.

With over twenty collections, Julien Fournié has created a recognizable and well-known style. He creates Haute Couture wedding dresses, Haute Couture evening dresses, Haute Couture tuxedo, Haute Couture ceremony dresses, Haute Couture gown… He is able to cater to this particularly demanding clientele in terms of creativity, quality and service to create Haute Couture outfits.

Julien Fournié’s creations are intended for a very high-end clientele. Theses clients seek the uniqueness of the garment. They want a personalized service and a privileged relationship with the couturier. 

Julien Fournié has become a “guest member” in the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows in 2011. This marked a first step in aknowledging Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of grand couturiers.

Since January 2017, following the sponsorship of the Chambre Syndicale, the French Ministry of Industry has granted Julien Fournié the Haute Couture label. This means that the Julien Fournié fashion house has joined an exclusive club of only sixteen names in the ultra-luxury world.

While respecting the tradition of Haute Couture, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Dassault Systèmes Apple and Tencent.

Julien Fournié was thus able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his dresses. He is one of the rare designers of Haute Couture to master the new digital tools. Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are not just spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a garment wherever they are.

Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. At first, the idea was to offer handbags seen in Julien Fournié Haute Couture shows and reserved, until then, for Haute Couture clients.

Since then, Julien Fournié has created new luxury bags ranging from evening clutches to tote bags and handbags becoming one of the most exclusive luxury handbags brands.

For the time being, these new luxury bags, Monogrammed bags and totes, clutches are exclusively available on the online boutique of the House.

In 2022, Julien Fournié has launched few pieces of jewelry sold on his online store.