First Shield

Tuesday July 4th, 2023 Runway Show

Salle Gaveau

Julien Fournié launches his counterattack on style and fashion design, a real call to resist fake trends with elegance and creativity.

Defender of feminine values (diplomacy rather than conquest, humor rather than aggression, seduction rather than submission), the French couturier asserts more than ever that women are the only real shield to protect mankind from all the outbursts of masculinity that are endangering it with war and violence.

The French couturier achieves this by diverting the medals, trimmings and other ornaments from military pageantry on his outfits in a festive spirit. The officers’ braid silk trimmings and shoulder pads are displaying new colors, tassels are replacing medals, the stars in the generals’ caps are invading the dresses for the human race’s true defenders.

First playing on extremely feminized men’s outfits (over-embroidered tuxedo, belts with pockets, silk jersey separates, upcycled military pants and shirts, a revisited First World War soldier’s coat), Julien Fournié plays with army codes to bring out the shimmer of ladies. Embroideries literally attack, gain ground, and invade precious fabrics.

A battle of glitter takes place between the elaborate weaving of silk and lurex devoured by embroidery. Elsewhere, “cannetille”, a metal thread, adorns the collar of “oversize” jackets in silk dupioni, velvet or satin.

Loose coats stand out for their volume. Some are reminiscent of kimonos. The “flash” liners reveal the light they hide inside. Julien Fournié does not deny himself any inspiration, neither geographical nor historical. He has fun with chain mail (for certain embroidery) as well as with the 19th-century frog fastenings of uniforms, with Samurai gear and 20th-century wars soldiers’ outfits, with men’s riding-coats and crinolines.

A dress with a cut inspired by the 1930s allows a casual behavior thanks to hidden pockets and a matching “boyish” jacket. The rich pewter-colored ensemble is entirely embroidered with crystal pearls and gunmetal thread.

The hands in the pockets casual demeanor is found on many dresses. “It’s the look of today’s girls, with more freedom on the way,” says the designer. “They can roll up the tails of their jackets and move on, with their bag or pouch under their arm, like soldiers carry a weapon in combat.”

Khaki, lagoon blue, pink gold, purple, red make up the color palette of the season without forgetting black. Some shades are treated by Julien Fournié in a gradient, others in the almost disco glitter of lurex, further accentuated by shiny matching umbrellas.

As an advocate of diversity, the couturier chooses his models to show his universal purpose: mixed-race, Asian and European, the Julien Fournié ladies transcend borders as much as they make fun of preconceptions. But what is left for men? Romain Brau, a French actor and singer with magnificent red hair, suggests a way: accepting a 19th-century crinoline under a large black silk dress with a plunging neckline on his man’s chest.

All this gives rise to a contest in which each one competes in style with the next to combine the pleasure of appearing with the audacity of being oneself.
The bride, an archangel of sweetness, appears in her immaculate white silk coat, and reveals a dress adorned with dazzling silver stars. Sure, with her crystal crown, she is coming from another galaxy to transcend all the conflicts of the universe and remind mankind that we are only made of stardust.

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Click on each photo to discover the details of each dress

Tuxedo with cigarette pants and double-breasted kimono jacket in black wool powder grain, embroidered with grand siècle deliquescent motifs in tube and crystal pearl. Premier Shield bag in croco-embossed leather, embroidered with grand siècle deliquescent motifs.

Double chasuble-style parachute dress in purple absinthe-changing Laser Game lurex and deep purple silk triple organza. Premier Kryptonite Laser Game bag.

Fluid army-green viscose jersey ensemble, asymmetrical cowl-back top worn with leggings. The ensemble is embroidered with trimmings and forage. Night porter" belt in croc-embossed leather.

Upcycled ensemble, shredded and embroidered "army" shirt on rose-gold lurex fabric, lacerated cotton pants, aged and worn vintage royal kimono and gold-thread trim.

Baby doll parachute dress in khaki and purple changeable lurex Georgette. Purple leather shoulder belt. Saturn Deep Purple tote bag.

Delta wing dress and leggings in fern-colored stretch silk Georgette. Deep Purple "Night porter" shoulder belt.

Double-breasted jacket and trouser ensemble in lavender Prince of Wales vintage inlaid with leather, worn with a grey-blue cap d'homme coat. Premier Midnight Blue bag in leather and monogrammed coated canvas. Saturn Azur tote bag.

Trompe-l'œil sheath dress in double silk crepe midnight, embroidered with jacket-effect passementerie in moonstone gradient lurex Georgette. Pluton Midnight Blue clutch.

Asymmetrical dress in black silk faille, lined in blue-violet Georgette lurex. Mini kimono jacket in black silk faille, lined in blue-violet Georgette lurex. Night porter" shoulder belt in Azur blue leather. Azur Mercure bag.

Storm suite in Mikador duck lurex embroidered with trimmings. Shield umbrella in Mikador duck lurex.

"Storm suite" in Mikador rose gold lurex embroidered with trimmings and sunray-colored crystal pendants. Shield umbrella in Mikador rose gold lurex.

Double-breasted kimono coat with train in khaki boreal jacquard, changing to violet, embroidered with pierced sparkles and crystal tubes and lined in black silk faille, worn with plum powder grain cigarette pants. Asymmetrical " Portier de nuit " harness in bronze patent leather.

Blouse set with duck-gray chiffon train and religious-pleated bib, worn over pewter silk satin cigarette pants. Mixed aviator jacket in duck lurex jacquard embroidered with trimmings and furs. Premier Constellations bag in metallic grained leather with pewter-colored silk satin flap embroidered with pearl constellations, cannon-gun sequins and crystal. Lined with black poly cotton faille.

Ball gown: oversized skirt with vertugadin and basket in triple organza and black silk faille. Silk jersey Cache-Coeur with large V-neckline trimmed with gunmetal lurex trimmings and furs. Cache-Coeur belt in black grained leather. Double Éris mini-bags in grained leather. Mercure Black bag.

Dress in Laser Game "Goldie pink" and illusion tulle embroidered with crystal tubes and gold thread in deliquescent cut, worn with a domino coat in black silk doupion lined with boreal jacquard in "goldie pink" thread. Premier Laser Game Goldie Pink bag.

Sheath dress in lilac Laser Game and illusion tulle embroidered with crystal tubes and lilac metallic threads with deliquescent cut and giant asymmetrical train. Premier Laser Game Lilac bag.

Loose dress with officer's collar in duck gradient silk crepe trimmed with duck lurex jacquard trimmings. Oversized double-breasted signature jacket in steel-blue lurex velvet panne, embroidered with constellation motifs in pearls, cannon-gun sequins and crystal with a vintage '30s effect.

Loose-fitting, boat-neck dress in purple absinthe-changing Laser Game lurex, embroidered with liquid-effect motifs in crystal chips and tubes. Shield umbrella in violet changing absinthe lurex Laser Game. Purple Mercury bag.

Loose dress with mystery neckline in neon purple gradient silk crepe nuit, worn with a signature oversized double-breasted jacket in plum lacquered silk jacquard embroidered with vintage 3D crystal herb motifs. Pluton Deep Purple clutch.

Hollywood dress with 1930s vintage effect and anatomical babydoll cut, in pewter-colored silk satin and viscose, embroidered with constellation and nebula motifs in cannetilles, tube, crystal chips and metallic faceted beads. Signature oversized double-breasted jacket in pewter-colored silk satin and viscose, embroidered with constellation and nebula motifs in cranberry, tube and crystal chips and faceted metallic beads. Collar trimmed with gunmetal-colored cannetilles with armor motifs.

Mixed aviator jacket set in black cotton velvet trimmed with shetland and snowflake motifs in crystal tubes, chips and faceted metal beads. Oversized boyish pants in black powder grain. Saturn Deep Black tote bag in black grained leather.

Large-volume, double-breasted diva dress in silk crepe and ruby silk doupion. The dress is embroidered with chandelier motifs in cannetilles, sequins, pearls, old gold and gunmetal-colored crystal tubes and sparkles.

Joséphine de Beauharnais large-volume, low-cut ball gown in black silk doupion embroidered with chandelier motifs in cannetilles, sequins, pearls, crystal tubes and gunmetal.

Parachute ball gown with trompe-l'œil suspended neckline and bare back embroidered with armor and snowflake motifs in pearls, sequins, tube and old silver crystal chips. Premier Gouttes de Cristal bag.

Azure mermaid dress with Joséphine de Beauharnais décolleté and asymmetrical train, embroidered with constellation motifs in sequined pearls and azure metallic threads. Worn with a kimono-effect, multi-detailed negligee coat in azure silk organza.

Joséphine de Beauharnais parachute wedding gown with trompe-l'œil suspended décolleté, star cut and giant skittles in white silk doupion. The dress is embroidered with constellation and comet motifs. The embroidery is made of crystal chips and pearls and gunmetal-colored metal tubes. The dress is worn with a kimono-effect domino coat in white silk doupion, lined with mirror-effect silver-changing azure-blue lurex jacquard. Tiara in blown glass, crystal and silver leaf embroidered with vintage pearls.

Julien Fournié Haute Couture – Dresses, Luxury Bags and Accessories

#FINDYOURLEGEND

Founded in 2009 in Paris by fashion designer Julien Fournié, the Julien Fournié House is one of only sixteen houses in the world to have obtained the Haute Couture label.

Maison Julien Fournié is more than a fashion brand, it’s a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With its commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continues to redefine the world of Haute Couture and luxury.

Julien Fournié Haute Couture House creates custom-made haute couture clothing for its clients. It offers a range of luxury bags and accessories.

Founded in 2009 by Julien Fournié, Maison Julien Fournié creates custom-made haute couture garments for its clients.

With over twenty collections, Julien Fournié has created a recognizable and well-known style. He creates Haute Couture wedding dresses, Haute Couture evening dresses, Haute Couture tuxedo, Haute Couture ceremony dresses, Haute Couture gown… He is able to cater to this particularly demanding clientele in terms of creativity, quality and service to create Haute Couture outfits.

Julien Fournié’s creations are intended for a very high-end clientele. Theses clients seek the uniqueness of the garment. They want a personalized service and a privileged relationship with the couturier.

Julien Fournié has become a “guest member” in the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows in 2011. This marked a first step in aknowledging Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of grand couturiers.

Since January 2017, following the sponsorship of the Chambre Syndicale, the French Ministry of Industry has granted Julien Fournié the Haute Couture label. This means that the Julien Fournié fashion house has joined an exclusive club of only sixteen names in the ultra-luxury world.

While respecting the tradition of Haute Couture, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Dassault Systèmes Apple and Tencent.

Julien Fournié was thus able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his dresses. He is one of the rare designers of Haute Couture to master the new digital tools. Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are not just spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a garment wherever they are.

Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. At first, the idea was to offer handbags seen in Julien Fournié Haute Couture shows and reserved, until then, for Haute Couture clients.

Since then, Julien Fournié has created new luxury bags ranging from evening clutches to tote bags and handbags becoming one of the most exclusive luxury handbags brands.

For the time being, these new luxury bags, Monogrammed bags and totes, clutches are exclusively available on the online boutique of the House.

In 2022, Julien Fournié has launched few pieces of jewelry sold on his online store.