Photos : Delphine Royer
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapter 2
Haute Couture outfit’s secrets: the 14 looks of First Creatures
I’ve been fantasizing about Captain Marvel for a very long time, this superheroine with super powers from the infinite.
It all started with a click of the fabric.
When Emmanuelle Canot, from Sfate & Combier, presented me with a preview of a new technical weaving called “laser game”, everything changed in my head. For the first time, traditional weavers from Lyon, partners of the Maison Julien Fournié, were projecting their materials into the future.
This weaving mixes six different shades of lurex on a silk base, which gives this material the glitter of stars and the transformation of colors visible on beetle wings. This light, multiverse, and changing weave is not an embroidery. “It’s a game changer.
Very quickly, the simplicity of the line of the dress imposed itself. It was the material that I had to put forward. I wanted to create a visual shock as if a black hole had absorbed all the light, so I decided to combine another fabric on this dress: a deep black silk and viscose jersey, with a “manta ray” cut.
Ray of light
Finally, this dress is just a ray of light, emphasizing the feminine curves. An illusion tulle neckline, a nod to the Star Trek star, and everything is said. The mittens sleeves lengthen the line even more. As for the Aeolus train, it’s like a beacon chasing the silhouette.
It takes two months of high-precision weaving on Sfate & Combier machines to create a lurex jacquard. The workshop in agitation, in front of such a fabric, did a remarkable job to assemble a dry and shiny material with a soft and easily deformable jersey.
It is Madame Jacqueline, the first of the Atelier, who finds the solution for the fabrication of the mystery neckline I was dreaming of. During a peregrination, I stumbled upon a vintage stock of crystals exactly in the colors of the “laser game”. I couldn’t help but use them to highlight the shine of the neckline.
Electric and nonchalant
A flash of inspiration! It could not have been Sally Diagne. Tall, athletic, shouldered, always focused, this young woman is perfect to perform on the podium, with her electric and nonchalant attitude of her generation.
Hello Nicolas? What are we doing with this crazy fabric? He answers me, as usual, with a lot of mystery, let me do it. Mister Mystery is going to concoct for me exactly the light of the dress in a new texture for Sally’s mouth.
It only took one word spoken to Jack from the Neville salon to know Alien. This English genius in his creative effervescence, while my phone cut every five minutes, threw me: Prometeus beep, Godess of Egypt beep, Tentacles beep, and futurism beep. A sublime hair sculpture
On D-Day, ready to go on the catwalk, Sally impresses me and her black shaded eyes remind me of her benevolence and determination. She is ready.
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Handbags, tote bags, and clutches created by Julien Fournié
More than a fashion brand, Maison Julien Fournié is a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With a commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continues to redefine the world of ultra-luxury.
Julien Fournié was founded in 2009.
The history of the house is reflected in its haute couture collections, which are presented in Paris every January and July during Haute Couture Week.
For his first collection, the young couturier was awarded the Grand Prize for Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010.
For his fourth collection, in January 2011, Julien Fournié became a “guest member” of the official calendar of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture catwalk shows. This was the first step towards recognizing Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of the great couturiers.
In January 2017, the Julien Fournié house was officially classified as “Haute Couture”. This label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is awarded to a few houses (only ten prestigious Haute Couture houses are currently on this list) that combine the best creativity in design and the highest quality in garment making.
Since its inception, Julien Fournié has also had the honor of being invited to show its collections at prestigious events abroad, in order to bring the couturier’s style to luxury clients from all over the world.
In March 2023, a Julien Fournié dress, worn by the actress Audrey Fleurot, entered the Grévin Museum in Paris.
In April 2023, the first retrospective of Julien Fournié’s work will be held at SCAD Lacoste in an exhibition entitled “Haute Couture un point c’est tout”.
While respecting tradition, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Apple and Tencent.
Julien Fournié has thus been able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his haute couture pieces. He is one of the few haute couture designers to master the new digital tools.
Long regarded as a survivor of a bygone era, the haute couture market has experienced a new boom in recent years. Thanks to new technologies, Julien Fournié has been able to establish direct and unique means of communication with his clients. It is no longer a question of sending a sketch to the client for approval, as was the case in the past.
Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are no longer mere spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a garment wherever they are.
Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. Initially, the idea was to offer handbags that could be seen in Julien Fournié shows and were previously reserved for haute couture customers.