Haute Couture Fall Winter 2018/2019
July 2018 runway show
Constantly in search of a style to allow ladies to best express their emotions, Julien Fournié signs his “First Crime” Haute Couture collection in 33 elegantly strict looks inspired by the suspense masters’ muses (Agatha Christie, Alfred Hitchcock, Paul Verhoeven). But how would a “profiler” analyze the motives of this “serial killer” of a couturier who hits with his aesthetics ?
First, he would notice the sculptural drapings, discover the hidden cuts, note the scalpel adjusted busts. He would investigate the secrets in the sleeves, examine the waist straps, the “basques” that accompany each movement. He would record the vertiginous asymmetries created by bias inlays and drapings. A sheath slashed by a cut on the side of the chest would intrigue him.
Julien Fournié’s favorite weapon remains the cut. It structures the garment and ensures modesty and pace. Precious leathers (pecari for size, reindeer for touch and nobility) can compose dresses as well as trousers. The French couturier’s customers dare it all l: for example, the panther total look printed on leather in a dress, a handbag, gloves and t-strap heels.
In a reconstructed pose, Julien Fournié’s fans are facing their own issues with weapons that belong only to them. By leading them to sublimate their impulses in a ruby, duck-blue, or fawn tones palette, the designer leads them into a purity of mohair, silk drape and chiffon which leaves no room for commonness or complacency. Like the incredible feathered black dress which opens the show, each piece pays tribute to the discreet handwork of Paris ateliers. Here, the embroidery in matte thread is devouring sequins, veils are dimming out sparkling shines, jacquards are revealing a special collaboration with the best weavers. But who or what is the designer trying to strangle ?
First of all, self-negligence, say his customers, and also the easiest possible solution declare his assistants, as well as the unbearable in-your-face shine confess his friends. “Suspense is like a woman,” said Alfred Hitchcock. “The more left to the imagination, the more the excitement.” Julien Fournié translates it well into unique garments.