Haute Couture Spring Summer 2019
Tuesday, January 22, 2019 runway show
In the Atlantic, between three continents, the lunar landscapes of Lanzarote island have inspired Julien Fournié for his new Haute Couture collection. Between desert and tropics, sirocco and trade winds, prodigious algae and volcanic lichens, the French couturier enforces Nature’s radical choices, operated on this peculiar island which has become a biosphere reserve. Minerals -dark castings of basalt, bright fine sands brought from the Sahara by the wind- form the contrasting basis of the season’s color palette, enhanced by a cactus green, a bougainvillea pink and the blue of a saturated sky, as reflected in the natural pool hidden in an open cave.
Stimulated by the paths trodden earlier by the artist-architect Cesar Manrique to celebrate creative actions in harmony with the ecosystem, Julien Fournié delivers a collection made with fabrics exclusively composed with natural fibers.
Every aspect in the French grand couturier’s collection breathes regained well-being, harmony and self-esteem. The sensuality of silk drape, the soft touch of chiffon, the mystery of moire in geological fuses of gray are underlined with asymmetric drapings and straight pleats, to better mark body curves and either frame or caress bare skin. With fabrics molded close over shoulders, bust and waist, amplitudes are developing only from the hips to a hemline just above the ankle… cinched by the strap of the House’s signature T-bar heels. Precious leathers (eel, reindeer, python) add to the voluptuousness of the collection. Ties and metalwork cinch the waistline, harness the shoulders, and occasionally strap the neck. Unusual cacti and chlorophyte algae are embroidered in luxurious embellishments. The lightness of a silk georgette flies in a scarf dress, whitewashed as with chalk, and adorned with the print designed by Julien Fournié to evoke the volcanic island, its strong colors, its singular palms.
A luxurious and casual chic spirit rules on the runway, the same one as in the parties organized in the 1960s by Cesar Manrique and Omar Sharif for their Hollywood friends, whom they welcomed for an exceptional leisure time in the incredible suites of decorated caves which they were using as mansions.
By combining telluric energy, summer atmosphere and casual elegance, “First Bliss” showcases a wardrobe conducive to pampering, toning, invigorating the summer of 2019 with self-respect and sincere compliance with the biophysical environment around.
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