Photos : Delphine Royer
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapter 3
Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the look 13 from First Creatures
How to make a dress that achieves the alchemy between the freshness of fuchsia and the danger of Datura?
Point of documentation: fuchsia is above all a flower that blooms in the morning, with gradations of purple and carmine.
Datura is more complicated
This dress will be fragile and dangerous at the same time, lacerated and venomous, transparent and opaque, like the petals of Datura, morphologically cut with the delicacy of fuchsia.
This surgical gown is in silk satin ombré and gradient fuchsia and black from Sfate & Combier, cut on a transparent black Georgette, and with an anatomical openwork, sharp mystery, in black illusion tulle.
The workshops worked for two months during which their obsession was to keep the fluidity of the fragile silk satin and preserve the transparencies of the tulle. A real meticulous work of lingerie.
Casting points with Jean-Paul Cauvin. To Jean-Paul Cauvin: good Jean-Paul, we absolutely need a very fresh young girl in this dress, with very white skin, and experienced in her fashion evolution who will be able to embody all the superb violence of her youth on the catwalk. Answer: To Julien: I found it, it’s easy, it will be Charlotte from The Face Paris Agency. She is graceful and elegant, like a flower, and very conscious of her sex appeal. It’s going to be a great transition.
Nicolas? I found you the new Twiggy, she has round eyes, like Tim Burton’s heroines. Answer: we’re going to play with that, a 70s look, like candy.
Neville’s team gave me exactly the effect of a sublime haircut when I woke up, a little rumpled, very natural, like after a restless night.
I didn’t see it pass during the fashion show, but it’s with my peripheral eye that I perceive it, after it passed, radiant and prickly, it was incandescent. Thank you Jean-Paul!
More secrets
You’re going to love this, too!
-
Zhang Ruonan (章若楠) in Julien Fournié Haute Couture for GRAZIA China
In the October 2026 issue of GRAZIA China (红秀GRAZIA), actress Zhang Ruonan (章若楠) wears the Alabaster Bride from Julien Fournié’s First Misfits Haute Couture collection.
-
Halloween Chic 2026: 5 Haute Couture Looks and 4 Bags from Julien Fournié
A sea monster, a punk ghost, a haunted chandelier, a blood-spattered tuxedo and a masked rabbit: five hand-embroidered looks from the First Misfits collection for Halloween 2026, and four bags to carry with them, from €385.
-
The Salopette Grand Soir: a Haute Couture Overalls Dress
Look 22 of the First Misfits collection takes a workwear garment and brings it to the ball: work overalls cut in black silk faille, worn over a nude sequin body-polo, above a ball skirt embroidered with waves of vintage crystals.
-
Angelababy Covers F Magazine China’s October 2026 Issue in Julien Fournié Haute Couture
For the third year in a row, Angelababy (杨颖) covers F Magazine China, wearing two Julien Fournié haute couture looks in its October 2026 issue — the only house represented twice in the shoot.
Julien Fournié Haute Couture House
Maison Julien Fournié is more than a fashion brand, it’s a luxury experience that transcends trends and seasons. With its commitment to excellence and innovation, Julien Fournié continues to redefine the world of Haute Couture and ultra luxury.
Founded in 2009 by the couturier Julien Fournié, the Julien Fournié house is centered around what the designer calls his “laboratory”: Haute Couture.
The history of the house is reflected in his collections unveiled in Paris, in January and July each year, during Haute Couture Week.
For his first collection, the young couturier has been awarded the Grand Prize of Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010.
For the fourth collection, in January 2011, Julien Fournié has become a “guest member” in the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows. This marked a first step in aknowledging Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of grand couturiers.
With this new title, Julien Fournié has put on the runway for the first time in the history of Haute Couture, a collection only worn by black models.
In January 2017, the Julien Fournié House was officially classified as “Haute Couture”. The Haute Couture label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is given to a few houses (only ten prestigious haute couture houses on this list today) which are combining the best of creativity in design and the utmost quality in garment making.
Since its beginnings, Julien Fournié has also had the honor of being invited to show the House’s collections abroad, at prestigious events, in order to make the couturier’s style known to luxury clients woldwide, in their own country.
On many occasions, Julien Fournié has shown in Singapore, in Stockholm, in Ho Chi Minh City, in Warsaw …
In March 2023, a Julien Fournié dress entered the Musée Grévin in Paris, worn by the character of actress Audrey Fleurot.
In April 2023, the first retrospective of Julien Fournié’s work is shown in an exhibition “Haute Couture un point c’est tout” at SCAD Lacoste.
While respecting the tradition of haute couture clothing, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Apple and Tencent.
Julien Fournié was thus able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his Haute Couture pieces. He is one of the rare designers of Haute Couture to master the new digital tools.
Long considered as a survivor of a bygone era, the Haute Couture market has experienced a new boom in recent years. Julien Fournié has been able to establish direct and unique means of communication with his clients thanks to new technologies. It is no longer a question of sending Haute Couture clients a sketch to be validated, as was done in the past.
Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are not just spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a Haute Couture garment wherever they are.
Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. At first, the idea was to offer handbags seen in Julien Fournié Haute Couture shows and reserved, until then, for Haute Couture clients.
