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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

haute couture secrets
Chapter 9

The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits: under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

Many things have been said about Audrey Fleurot. Everyone knows her talent, she is a stage actress, a film actress, a popular artist, in short an icon of the small and big screen, an energy and a passionate above all.
But for me Audrey Fleurot is not only that…

One day, a few years ago, thanks to the intermediary of a seasoned film stylist, Audrey walked through the door of my studio. We were all waiting for her… There, like a ray of sunshine, she filled the space with warmth and kindness, smiling and sincere. She spent time with Mrs. Jacqueline, my first of Workshop, to touch materials, understand sewing techniques…

That day, as with all our Haute Couture clients, she took measurements. She is a very feminine and ultimately very fragile figure, but also athletic.
Afterwards, we went to the salon and she explained to me her love for clothing.

This young woman has as much fun playing roles in movies as she does being multifaceted in real life. She agrees with me: “clothing is a non-verbal message”.

Gothic sparklE

So yes, Audrey Fleurot is a Hollywood diva a Jessica Rabbit, redheaded and luscious. The next day, she’s an elegant Parisian with a red mouth and then, one evening, she’s a gothic sparkle, a real witch of Eastwick. For a photo series, she can even be an empress. But on a daily basis, Audrey Fleurot is a boyish girl.

I had the chance to dress Audrey for the first time for “La Fête des Mères”, a film by Marie Castille Mention-Schaar. In an incredible ball gown of scarab and midnight blue lurex jacquard from the Première Nuit collection, for a big reception scene, Mademoiselle Fleurot played the President of the French Republic. In this film, she wore exclusively outfits from the House of Julien Fournié.

At the request of ALL.I.C Magazine, Audrey played the photo model game with me for the first time, under the watchful eye of Michèle Bloch Stuckens.

I had just finished First Crime, my “Vertigo” collection, a tribute to Alfred Hitchcock, and it was a revelation. Audrey is at the same time Marnie in a red silk dress, Tippi in a night powder grain suit, but also Grace in a black faille dress, languid.

Not a Hitchcockian victim

Audrey Fleurot is however not a Hitchcockian victim. So, it will take a claw in this photo series. With a look of Parisian bobo disheveled, wearing a leopard print leather panther dress, or, a bit of a duck feathered casserole, in a silk crepe pajama suit with washed silk trench.

The night before a shoot for the First Spell collection with Delphine Royer, we call her one night very late, begging her to come by the set, just to take a picture. And, in her deep voice, she answered me: “you can count on me commies”.

Mysterious and dangerous

The next day at 2pm sharp, having just arrived from a shoot, she is beaming, getting off her scooter. She falls into the hands of my team of “coif-mac”. Notched hair, disheveled, relaqué, sublimely made up, she jumps in the frame, dressed in a trench oversize Corto Maltese mutated in Jack Sparrow. And when Michaëlla Tomanova and Evgeniya Sycheva join her, she is transformed into one of the Witches of Eastwick, in her mauve blouse, embroidered with crystal tulle, mysterious and dangerous.

IMG 1540 copie
With Paul Anderson and Sébastien Roché in Tartuffe by Gérald Garutti

In Gérald Garutti’s Tartuffe, performed in London, she appears in a gold lacquered strech sheath.

For the César, there was no alternative. Adorned with another sheath in emerald green lacquered silk jersey, she will give a César, like a “Poison Ivy”. She burns everything in her path, hypnotizing. I have the chance to be her date at this party. We had a lot of laughs.

audrey fleurot julien fournié césar
Audrey Fleurot and Julien Fournié backstage at the César

For the launch of the series Les Combattantes, she puts on the white 1940s trench coat from the First Manifesto collection. She is an angel under the eye of Thomas Braut.

Finally, despite all the stylistic possibilities, we do not admire a toilet on her, we look at Audrey Fleurot. The only costume she never takes off is her elegance and kindness. Thank you Audrey.

les combattantes
The actresses of the series Les Combattantes of TF1 Audrey Fleurot, Julie de Bona, Sofia Essaïdi and Camille Lou in Julien Fournié (photo Thomas Braut)

Photos : Michèle Bloch Stuckens for ALL.I.C. and Delphine Royer

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Read : The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits

  • Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot
    Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

    Chapter 9 The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits: under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot Many things have been said about Audrey Fleurot. Everyone knows her talent, she is a stage actress, a film actress, a popular artist, in short an icon of the small and big screen, an energy and a passionate above all.But for […]

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love

haute couture secrets
Chapter 8

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the Haute Couture jacket of Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love

Si In Kim landed one morning in our workshop from outer space. This tall doll of one meter eighty, straight from Korea, came directly from a manga that a whole generation knew well: Captain Harlock.

Her long blond-platinum hair, her slender figure, her masculine allure were the quintessence of Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love.

Nausicaa

“Quick Jacqueline, bring me the gunmetal lurex jacquard with a midnight blue silk bourrette effect that Sfate et Combier has developed exclusively for us.

A trompe-l’oeil jacket

We are going to create a trompe-l’oeil jacket, with a manta ray cut. It will have an angled tailor sleeve and abyssal cut Basques. We’re going to inlay a satin leather collar with a matte finish to emphasize the cut-out.

Jacqueline then asks me, “How do you close it?

To have such a legible line, we couldn’t use a front-middle closure.

“We’ll use a middle-back zipper,” I answer.

Julien Fournié
Si In Kim and Julien Fournié backstage before the fashion show of the Haute Couture collection First Creatures (Photo Brioda Savi).

Jacqueline writes “but it’s not a jacket anymore!

“Dear Jacqueline, I remind you that Haute Couture is the art of transforming, creating and inventing, it will be a mutant jacket, innovative, like the entire collection.

It will be enough thereafter to sheath the legs of this Sylvidre in a cigarette pants with black sequins.

Mini gloves in perforated leather will bring a rock side.

Arcadia, the new Premier handbag

It is on this look that I want to launch the new Premier bag in grained calf, entirely studded, that I named Arcadia which is none other than the name of Captain Harlock’s ship.

Nicolas just had to add a starlight on his forehead to give it all its splendor.

Nausica
Si In Kim in backstage (Photo Brioda Savi)

As for Jack, all he had to do was smooth out his gorgeous platinum mane.

Nonchalance

She was my childhood memories, my obsessions and my scares from back then.
Her nonchalance and lost look fascinated the audience, she was no longer a model, she was a character from Leiji Matsumoto‘s imagination.

.

Photos : Delphine Royer

Read : The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits

  • Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot
    Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

    Chapter 9 The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits: under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot Many things have been said about Audrey Fleurot. Everyone knows her talent, she is a stage actress, a film actress, a popular artist, in short an icon of the small and big screen, an energy and a passionate above all.But for […]

    See

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  • Swiss Music Prize 2022: Marina Viotti dressed in Julien Fournié

    Marina Viotti was in Julien Fournié Haute Couture at the Swiss Music Prize 2022. On September 16, 2022, these prizes were awarded at the Octogone Théâtre in Pully. In the presence of Federal Councillor Alain Berset, the Federal Office of Culture awarded the Grand Prix to Yello, the electronic pop pioneers. Dieter Meier and Boris […]

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  • Marina Viotti in a grand ball dress by Julien Fournié for her new album

    Marina Viotti in Julien Fournié Haute Couture for the cover of the new album “A Tribute To Pauline Viardot”. Christophe Rousset and Les Talens Lyriques pay tribute to the most important singer of the 19th century: Pauline Viardot, a diva of many talents. Marina Viotti’s voice sublimates the most famous arias taken from some of […]

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  • فساتين خطوبة بقصة الكورسيه These engagement dresses with a corset story

    One of the corset cut engagement dresses designed by Julien Fournie لا تبطل موضة فساتين الخطوبة بقصة الكورسيه ، خصوصاً وأن موديلاتها تتنوّع تبعاً لكل موسم ومجموعة أزياء. لكل عروس تحلم بليلة ساحرة لا تتردّدي باللجوء إلى هذا الموديل من الفساتين؛ حتى تكوني أميرة مبهرة تلفت الأنظار إليها. …Corset style engagement dresses have become one […]

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Daenerys the Dragon Queen

haute couture secrets
Chapter 7

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the Haute Couture dress of Daenerys, the queen of dragons from First Creatures

When I saw Lera Shatilova come into my design studio for casting, we all had a shock. Jean-Paul exclaimed, “That’s Daenerys, the queen of dragons from Game of Thrones!”

Like a luminescent apparition, Lera dazzled the room with her presence. Very calm, smiling, discreet, Lera imposed respect. She was hurrying through the fittings, her distant, transparent gaze and ethereal blondness immediately reminding me why I had named this collection First Creatures.

We had her first look, but not the second, which was to be unforgettable, highlighting her plastic doll beauty, as if out of a fairy tale. Her second look had to reveal both her dark side and her icy luminosity,

haute couture dresses
Julien Fournié’s illustration of Daenerys’ Haute Couture dress from the First Creatures collection

The workshops were putting together an incandescent Haute Couture dress, in jacquard of bleached gold Lurex, pink and azure-blue reflections in “laser game,” the fabric made by Sfate and Combier.
I had been spinning around this model for a while, without really giving it life. I was stirring…

With the arrival of Lera, a creative Big Bang operated: “We will add an azure-blue petticoat to give volume and we will build a winged back with rostrums,” I said to Jacqueline. The workshops looked at me dumbfounded. What?

While for this collection I wanted to remove everything superfluous, I was going to bring an architectural dimension to this Haute Couture dress. I asked for metal ribs and a whole set of stitching to hold this mystery back that would levitate and move organically around the dress. And to give even more magic to this garment, everything would be suspended on tulle illusion. The metamorphosis of a young woman into an interstellar creature.

julien fournié
Julien Fournié and Lera Shatilova during the preparation of the fashion show (Photo Brioda Savi)

Lera’s cold skin tone, warmed by this undulating and reflective material, will give a luminescent wow effect on the catwalk.

Nicolas and Jack only worked to highlight Lera’s beauty.

A reference to the hair jumped out at me: she will have Veronica Lake’s hairstyle, asymmetrical and curly, like in the movies of the ’40s. Nicolas, for his part, only had to make any expression disappear. He summarized: “We emptied everything: no more eyebrows, not more contours, nothing, just light and barely any shadows on the eyes to highlight her ice blue iris.”

Lera and I didn’t need to talk much to understand each other. Instinctively, she assimilated every gesture I showed her. Lera already had in her the primal elegance, always alert, but with a lot of distance, and the intensity required to present this Haute Couture dress on the catwalk.

It is for moments like this that I do this job.

Daenerys haute couture dress
Lera Shatilova and Julien Fournié backstage before the fashion show of the Haute Couture collection First Creatures (Photo Brioda Savi).

.

Photos : Delphine Royer

→ Discover Julien Fournié Haute Couture
portrait de julien fournie thomas brault
JULIEN FOURNIÉ PHOTOGRAPHED BY THOMAS BRAUT

Julien Fournié

Although sketching has been a passion since his early years, fashion design was chosen by Julien Fournié only after a first academic orientation in the field of medical studies.

Selected as one of the talents chosen to study at the ESAA Duperré, he quickly preferred the technical rigor of the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. Creativity? He has learnt it at the side of the biggest names in Haute Couture, experiencing multiple internships inside prestigious Paris-based fashion houses, including Christian Dior, where he has met Jean Mouclier, who taught him how to sketch jewelry, but also Givenchy (when Alexander McQueen was Creative Director), Nina Ricci and Céline, among other names.

In 2000, at his graduation runway show, he received the Moët et Chandon Award for best accessory at Paris Fashion Awards.

While he had just come into internship at Céline, Jean Paul Gaultier hired him as an assistant in his Haute Couture studio. In charge of researching materials and embroidery, he also collaborated in designing some Madonna stage costumes for her “World Tour”. Identified as a budding talent by another great name of fashion, Claude Montana, he then collaborated with this master of cut and garment architecture.

In 2003, while he was working as a designer at Montana Creations, Julien Fournié was appointed by Torrente Haute Couture as Creative Director for ready-to-wear lines. A few days before his first show for the house based at the Rond-Point des Champs Elysées, he was named Creative Director for the entire brand, including Haute Couture.

Julien Fournié then wanted to discover the world and countries which were then only emerging in the fashion industry. In 2006, he was hired by the LG Fashion Group, in South Korea, to be the Creative Director of several brands. In Seoul, he met a different fashion ecosystem, directed to the future.

Back in Paris, Ramosport, the mythical home of the “travel coat” made him its new Creative Director. He then returned to accessories as a designer at Charles Jourdan. After the closing of these houses, which were led by financiers with little specific knowledge of the fashion markets, Julien Fournié took his destiny in hand.

Julien Fournié decided to found, in 2009, his eponymous house around the spirit of Parisian Couture, its unparalleled craftsmanship and constant need for innovation.

Julien Fournié Haute Couture House

Founded in 2009 by the couturier Julien Fournié, the Julien Fournié house is centered around what the designer calls his “laboratory”: Haute Couture. The history of the house is reflected in the collections unveiled in Paris, in January and July each year, during Haute Couture Week. Thus “First Pieces” marked in June 2009 the beginnings of the Julien Fournié style codes: back windows, “Art Deco” lace, noble fabrics (silk drape, muslin and organza) combined with more innovative materials. Thanks to this first collection, the young couturier has been awarded the Grand Prize of Creativity by the City of Paris in January 2010.

For the fourth collection after its debut, in January 2011, Julien Fournié has become a “guest member” in the official calendar of Haute Couture runway shows. This marked a first step in aknowledging Julien Fournié as a promising new brand in the circle of grand couturiers. With this new title, Julien Fournié has put on the runway for the first time in the history of Haute Couture, a collection only worn by black models.

In the same year, Julien Fournié, together with Dassault Systèmes, created FashionLab, a technology incubator at the crossroads of fashion and 3D design, convinced that 3D could propel fashion to new heights. Since then, both partners have been exploring and developing several incubation projects concerning clothing, footwear, but also materials sourcing and fashion retailing. Developed with FashionLab 3D digital solutions , the Julien Fournié shoe collections (as seen on every runway show of the house since July 2014) are presented to Haute Couture customers for special orders.

Throughout the seasons, the Parisian Couture House has agregated key supporters and partners.

Since the very first fashion show, Jean Paul Cauvin -who was then a respected fashion writer, and editor- has been curating the production and casting processes as well as producing the house’s runway show soundtracks. Continuing to pursue these missions season after season, he has also been fulfilling continuously, since 2013, the duties of Chief Operating Officer of the Julien Fournié company.

Madame Jacqueline, the House’s Head Seamstress, and Nicolas Degennes, a major makeup artist, have also faithfully brought their expertise to Julien Fournié since the very beginning.

Since 2014, the wonderful team of London hair salon Neville, led by Elena Lavagni, has continuously cured the hairdressing of all the House’s fashion shows and photo shoots.

Among other partners, YKK fastening solutions, has faithfully partnered with the Julien Fournié brand for each and every collection. The late legendary buyer Maria Luisa Poumaillou has been advising the brand. More recently, the Maison Julien Vermeulen, a brilliant Paris-based feather embroiderer, has tied a fruitful collaboration with the Haute Couture House as Guigou and Sfat et Combier.

In January 2017, the Julien Fournié House was officially classified as “Haute Couture”. The Haute Couture label, protected by the French Ministry of Industry, is given to a few houses (only sixteen prestigious names on this list today) which are combining the best of creativity in design and the utmost quality in garment making.

Since its beginnings, Julien Fournié has also had the honor of being invited to show the House’s collections abroad, at prestigious events, in order to make the couturier’s style known to luxury clients woldwide, in their own country.

On three occasions, Julien Fournié has shown in Singapore, but also in Stockholm, in November 2012, where he has presented his “First Retrospective” in the famous hall of honor of the Swedish capital’s City Hall.

In October 2015, his “First Initiation” collection opened the second edition of Vietnam International Fashion Week, in Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon).

In October 2018, Julien Fournié Haute Couture participated in the “French Touch” gala organized at the Welki Theater in Warsaw and broadcasted on the country’s first national private television channel (TVN), to promote French arts and luxury in Poland.

While respecting the tradition of Haute Couture, Julien Fournié has also forged new partnerships with high-tech giants such as Apple and Tencent.

Julien Fournié was thus able to digitize the creation, design and personalization of his Haute Couture pieces. He is one of the rare designers of Haute Couture to master the new digital tools.

Long considered as a survivor of a bygone era, the Haute Couture market has experienced a new boom in recent years. Julien Fournié has been able to establish direct and unique means of communication with his clients thanks to new technologies. It is no longer a question of sending Haute Couture clients a sketch to be validated, as was done in the past.

Julien Fournié has introduced a new process in which clients are not just spectators of the creative process. They have become actors in the unique experience of creating a Haute Couture garment wherever they are.

Bags and accessories from Julien Fournié.

Since December 2020, Julien Fournié has been developing a line of luxury bags and accessories. At first, the idea was to offer handbags seen in Julien Fournié Haute Couture shows and reserved, until then, for Haute Couture clients.

Since then, Julien Fournié has created new models ranging from evening clutches to tote bags and handbags.

These high-end bags are made in the purest respect of artisanal traditions.

For the moment, these luxury bags are exclusively available on the online boutique of the House.

Latest news from Julien Fournié Haute Couture house

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Read : The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits

  • Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot
    Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

    Chapter 9 The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits: under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot Many things have been said about Audrey Fleurot. Everyone knows her talent, she is a stage actress, a film actress, a popular artist, in short an icon of the small and big screen, an energy and a passionate above all.But for […]

    See

Read also

  • Swiss Music Prize 2022: Marina Viotti dressed in Julien Fournié

    Marina Viotti was in Julien Fournié Haute Couture at the Swiss Music Prize 2022. On September 16, 2022, these prizes were awarded at the Octogone Théâtre in Pully. In the presence of Federal Councillor Alain Berset, the Federal Office of Culture awarded the Grand Prix to Yello, the electronic pop pioneers. Dieter Meier and Boris […]

    See

  • Marina Viotti in a grand ball dress by Julien Fournié for her new album

    Marina Viotti in Julien Fournié Haute Couture for the cover of the new album “A Tribute To Pauline Viardot”. Christophe Rousset and Les Talens Lyriques pay tribute to the most important singer of the 19th century: Pauline Viardot, a diva of many talents. Marina Viotti’s voice sublimates the most famous arias taken from some of […]

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  • فساتين خطوبة بقصة الكورسيه These engagement dresses with a corset story

    One of the corset cut engagement dresses designed by Julien Fournie لا تبطل موضة فساتين الخطوبة بقصة الكورسيه ، خصوصاً وأن موديلاتها تتنوّع تبعاً لكل موسم ومجموعة أزياء. لكل عروس تحلم بليلة ساحرة لا تتردّدي باللجوء إلى هذا الموديل من الفساتين؛ حتى تكوني أميرة مبهرة تلفت الأنظار إليها. …Corset style engagement dresses have become one […]

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Celestial light

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Haute Couture dress’ secrets
Chapter 6

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the wedding dress from First Creatures

We hear a lot of things about wedding dresses since the dawn of time. Everyone has a point of view: for the Haute Couture saleswomen, “It has to be a customer”; for the ateliers, “It has to reflect the savoir-faire of Haute Couture”; for the design studio, “It has to be innovative”; for the friends, “It has to be bright” and for the press, it has to be “wow effect”.

In fact, it’s all very subjective. All I know is that a Haute Couture wedding dress is only made with a client, according to her desire, her emotions. It is a design that can trigger a desire, an embroidery that can make her capsize, a silk sheet that can transport her, or a detail of the neckline that can touch her.

A meeting between the designer and a woman

A wedding dress is a magical moment, a meeting between the designer and a woman.

haute couture dress 2022
Illustration réalisée par Julien Fournié sur iPadPro

This season, the wedding dress will take the codes of the collection and will be propelled into another universe. It will be the connection between my obsession with the ocean floor, with its creatures that create their own light, and the stars that shine in the immensity of the universe.

royal jelly organza

So we’ll start with a very specific subject. “Hello? Emmanuelle, do you think you could make me this incredible material called “royal jelly organza” in optical white? She answers me with enthusiasm, “It smells like a wedding dress…”. It was folded. Eighty meters of this silk organza in relief with a polyamide microfilm that gives it a bewitching reflection.

The workshops, on a base of bustier suspended by tulle illusion, will realize the volume and the cuts of the manta ray. The petticoat with multiple cups will give the effect of a medusa train.
The idea is that the wedding dress is light and airy, as if it were levitating.

robe de mariée 2022
Over 800 faceted crystal beads on metal rods planted in a medusa bun.

Angeliki Tsionou, with her fragility and her diaphanous skin will be the perfect muse to bring the highlight of this collection.

For the hairstyle, the workshops have mounted more than 800 faceted crystal beads on metal rods planted in a chignon medusa made by Jack and the team of the Neville salon.

Nacre Halos

Nicolas will only have to underline, for the makeup, the translucent complexion of Angeliki thanks to mother-of-pearl halos reflecting the light.

For the music, at the moment of the passage of the wedding dress during the fashion show, Jean-Paul proposes a mysterious and bewitching echo taken from the soundtrack of the film Le Parfum.

wedding dress
The wedding dress from the First Creatures collection

Like Ephemera from the depths of the ocean, Angeliki flies onto the catwalk.

Photos : Delphine Royer

In the same serie

How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long did it take to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? The Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.

Read : The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits

  • Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot
    Under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot

    Chapter 9 The secrets of Haute Couture Outfits: under the skirts of Audrey Fleurot Many things have been said about Audrey Fleurot. Everyone knows her talent, she is a stage actress, a film actress, a popular artist, in short an icon of the small and big screen, an energy and a passionate above all.But for […]

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Scarlet Witch… from the shadows to the light

haute couture secrets
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapter 5

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : Scarlet Witch the look 10 from First Creatures

Everyone knows my passion for superheroes and Disney Avengers
In the First Creatures collection, I wanted to find the essence of a character that could have come straight out of my First Spell collection, but with a more futuristic Matrix-like style…

Scarlet Witch is simply the character that best reflects the team of superheroines I wanted on my runway, especially considering that I only wanted one red silhouette.

haute couture illustration
Illustration by Julien Fournié on ipadpro
Emblematic character

A bio point: Scarlet Witch, aka Wanda Maximoff, wasn’t always in the spotlight. She starts her career as a supervillain, with her father Magneto, and finally ends up alongside the Advengers. She is a magician who transmutes matter, she has the power of life and death. She directs thought and can distort reality and control the elements. She is one of the most emblematic characters created by Stan Lee.

Red is only interesting to me if it is embodied and has a specific place in a collection. It’s not one of my favorite colors. It took four months for Sfate & Combier to make the exact shade I had imagined in a very innovative material: a Stretch silk called “Baie des anges.”

I saw the silhouette arriving like a redemptive fury, bearing the stigmata of a battle for humanity, embroidered, bloody, crystallized, stealthy in “jeggings” (a legging skirt) with a mysterious cape coat.

scarlet witch
Scarlet Witch dress detail

The embroidery on illusion tulle is in matte red sequins, enhanced with scarlet crystal beads. More than two hundred bangs have been added. They are composed of more than two thousand pearls degraded, which gives it this depth of red. “Baie des anges”, powdered and stretch, is an ideal material to mold the body of the model and reveals exactly the colors chosen. It will become a staple in my home, but in other colors. “It works divinely well,” exclaim the workshops, a treasure of technicality.

Katya Estratova of Studio Paris has the energy and enthusiasm to play this character.

scarlet witch
Photo Ludmila Ljubic

Jack, from Neville, simply pulled her hair into a high ponytail, a replica of the sketch I sent her, which gave Nicolas the opportunity to pull up her eyebrows and make her eyebrows very strong, to highlight her jade eyes in black. “The mouth will have exactly the shade of the dress, it will be saturated with mother-of-pearl,” Nicolas emphasizes.

Explosive, she delighted those who attended the show.

Photos : Delphine Royer

More Secrets

  • Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love

    Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love

    Chapter 8 Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the Haute Couture jacket of Nausicaa, Captain Harlock’s hidden love Si In Kim landed one morning in our workshop from outer space. This tall doll of one meter eighty, straight from Korea, came directly from a manga that a whole generation knew well: Captain Harlock. Her long blond-platinum […]

    See

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  • Swiss Music Prize 2022: Marina Viotti dressed in Julien Fournié

    Marina Viotti was in Julien Fournié Haute Couture at the Swiss Music Prize 2022. On September 16, 2022, these prizes were awarded at the Octogone Théâtre in Pully. In the presence of Federal Councillor Alain Berset, the Federal Office of Culture awarded the Grand Prix to Yello, the electronic pop pioneers. Dieter Meier and Boris […]

    See

  • Marina Viotti in a grand ball dress by Julien Fournié for her new album

    Marina Viotti in Julien Fournié Haute Couture for the cover of the new album “A Tribute To Pauline Viardot”. Christophe Rousset and Les Talens Lyriques pay tribute to the most important singer of the 19th century: Pauline Viardot, a diva of many talents. Marina Viotti’s voice sublimates the most famous arias taken from some of […]

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  • فساتين خطوبة بقصة الكورسيه These engagement dresses with a corset story

    One of the corset cut engagement dresses designed by Julien Fournie لا تبطل موضة فساتين الخطوبة بقصة الكورسيه ، خصوصاً وأن موديلاتها تتنوّع تبعاً لكل موسم ومجموعة أزياء. لكل عروس تحلم بليلة ساحرة لا تتردّدي باللجوء إلى هذا الموديل من الفساتين؛ حتى تكوني أميرة مبهرة تلفت الأنظار إليها. …Corset style engagement dresses have become one […]

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Nat, the Revelation

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Nat, the Revelation 57
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapitre 4

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the look 13 from First Creatures

For the previous First Love collection, we had to give up on using Nat’s services because of Covid. Great sadness and despair, Nat Hagerdorf had been a revelation during the castings for the show that had to be canceled at the last minute. Her glamour, her professionalism made her a new major element of my modeling team. But then it happened.

For First Creatures, and my return to the catwalk, I couldn’t imagine doing the show without her. From the beginning of the collection, I said she would have her place.

So I designed an anatomical dress assembled on tulle illusion, ghostly, like a second skin which would be only a marquetry of black silk Georgette, Chantilly lace, with sea serpent patterns and inlay of old collars with 30s patterns.

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Detail of the Haute Couture dress worn by Nat Hagerdorf

At the sight of the first sketch, Jacqueline, my first of workshops, say, “but it will be all naked? No, Jacqueline, we are going to put the silk Georgette on black silk organza.

The use of the material is insane, it will take no less than 50 meters of Georgette to finally build a sheath, one of the secrets of this Haute Couture dress.

Lingerie dress

This lingerie dress, light as a handkerchief, cut with a scalpel, divinely underlines Nat’s curves, in the manner of Morticia Adams, but will hinder her in such a way that it will give her a graceful and sexy walk.

A bit of a train and the magic happened on the catwalk.
Who doesn’t know that the Neville Salon is famous for its most beautiful curly hairstyles, Jack only had to do a tribute to Elena Lavagni and Rita Hayworth.

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Julien Fournié and Nat Hagerdorf in the backstage of the fashion show of the First Creatures collection

Nicolas: “let me enjoy a doe eye, a pearly white halo on the cheeks and a glossy ruby mouth. Basta.”

Nat remains a mystery, she fascinates me, I can’t wait to redesign a dress for her for my next collection.

Photos : Delphine Royer

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Fuchsia Datura

haute couture secrets
HAUTE COUTURE outfit’s secrets
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.

Chapter 3

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the look 13 from First Creatures

How to make a dress that achieves the alchemy between the freshness of fuchsia and the danger of Datura?

Point of documentation: fuchsia is above all a flower that blooms in the morning, with gradations of purple and carmine.

Datura is more complicated

datura
datura
A Datura flower

This dress will be fragile and dangerous at the same time, lacerated and venomous, transparent and opaque, like the petals of Datura, morphologically cut with the delicacy of fuchsia.

secrets d'un modele haute couture
Julien Fournié’s illustration of the look 13 of the First Creatures collection

This surgical gown is in silk satin ombré and gradient fuchsia and black from Sfate & Combier, cut on a transparent black Georgette, and with an anatomical openwork, sharp mystery, in black illusion tulle.

The workshops worked for two months during which their obsession was to keep the fluidity of the fragile silk satin and preserve the transparencies of the tulle. A real meticulous work of lingerie.

Casting points with Jean-Paul Cauvin. To Jean-Paul Cauvin: good Jean-Paul, we absolutely need a very fresh young girl in this dress, with very white skin, and experienced in her fashion evolution who will be able to embody all the superb violence of her youth on the catwalk. Answer: To Julien: I found it, it’s easy, it will be Charlotte from The Face Paris Agency. She is graceful and elegant, like a flower, and very conscious of her sex appeal. It’s going to be a great transition.

Nicolas? I found you the new Twiggy, she has round eyes, like Tim Burton’s heroines. Answer: we’re going to play with that, a 70s look, like candy.

Neville’s team gave me exactly the effect of a sublime haircut when I woke up, a little rumpled, very natural, like after a restless night.

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A detail from the “Datura Fuchsia”, First Creatures Julien Fournié Fall Winter 22-23 collection.

I didn’t see it pass during the fashion show, but it’s with my peripheral eye that I perceive it, after it passed, radiant and prickly, it was incandescent. Thank you Jean-Paul!

.

Photos : Delphine Royer

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“Laser” game changer

haute couture secrets
“Laser” game changer 71
How was it imagined and designed? What materials are used to make it? How long dit it takes to make? How was the top model chosen to wear it during the fashion show? Haute Couture outfit’s secrets.
Chapter 2

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets: the 14 looks of First Creatures

I’ve been fantasizing about Captain Marvel for a very long time, this superheroine with super powers from the infinite.
It all started with a click of the fabric.

When Emmanuelle Canot, from Sfate & Combier, presented me with a preview of a new technical weaving called “laser game”, everything changed in my head. For the first time, traditional weavers from Lyon, partners of the Maison Julien Fournié, were projecting their materials into the future.

This weaving mixes six different shades of lurex on a silk base, which gives this material the glitter of stars and the transformation of colors visible on beetle wings. This light, multiverse, and changing weave is not an embroidery. “It’s a game changer.

haute couture secrets
Drawing made by Julien Fournié of the Haute Couture dress

Very quickly, the simplicity of the line of the dress imposed itself. It was the material that I had to put forward. I wanted to create a visual shock as if a black hole had absorbed all the light, so I decided to combine another fabric on this dress: a deep black silk and viscose jersey, with a “manta ray” cut.

Ray of light

Finally, this dress is just a ray of light, emphasizing the feminine curves. An illusion tulle neckline, a nod to the Star Trek star, and everything is said. The mittens sleeves lengthen the line even more. As for the Aeolus train, it’s like a beacon chasing the silhouette.

It takes two months of high-precision weaving on Sfate & Combier machines to create a lurex jacquard. The workshop in agitation, in front of such a fabric, did a remarkable job to assemble a dry and shiny material with a soft and easily deformable jersey.

It is Madame Jacqueline, the first of the Atelier, who finds the solution for the fabrication of the mystery neckline I was dreaming of. During a peregrination, I stumbled upon a vintage stock of crystals exactly in the colors of the “laser game”. I couldn’t help but use them to highlight the shine of the neckline.

Electric and nonchalant

A flash of inspiration! It could not have been Sally Diagne. Tall, athletic, shouldered, always focused, this young woman is perfect to perform on the podium, with her electric and nonchalant attitude of her generation.

Hello Nicolas? What are we doing with this crazy fabric? He answers me, as usual, with a lot of mystery, let me do it. Mister Mystery is going to concoct for me exactly the light of the dress in a new texture for Sally’s mouth.

It only took one word spoken to Jack from the Neville salon to know Alien. This English genius in his creative effervescence, while my phone cut every five minutes, threw me: Prometeus beep, Godess of Egypt beep, Tentacles beep, and futurism beep. A sublime hair sculpture

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A detail of the dress during the Haute Couture show of the First Creatures collection

On D-Day, ready to go on the catwalk, Sally impresses me and her black shaded eyes remind me of her benevolence and determination. She is ready.

Photos : Delphine Royer

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HAUTE COUTURE OUTFIT’S SECRETS

Skin deep

haute couture outfit's secrets

Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the first look of First Creatures

Chapter 1

After the tumult we went through these past two years, it was hard to return to the catwalk without an opening model that reflected my state of mind: heightened vulnerability. The idea was a doll that stands up, even stronger, after being abused, cut up, sewn back together with a pure, elongated silhouette and cut. A dress inspired by the characters of Tim Burton. It combines the tenderness of a transparent tulle illusion with the strength and protection of leather. A single shade: Nudes. Why? It is the color of the skin of course!

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The ideation of Julien Fournié’s sketch realized on IPad Pro

 

How to open windows on the human body, through cut-outs, without that being translated into an exacerbated sexuality? The obsession of this model is, above all, the human anatomy in its magnificence.

Ghost dress

The tones and leathers chosen are analogous to those of the human body. We do not know where is the body, where is the clothing, I call it ghost dresses.

Illustration look1 firstcreatures
Illustration : Julien Fournié

Only the eyelets and the lassages tell us that every being is made of a structure. The workshops and I designed the prototype directly on our wooden mannequin, to get as close as possible to the curves of human anatomy. 

French Tradition

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the cut. This model is a Nude leather inlay, stitched in the purest French tradition. As my grandfather, a tanner, used to explain it to me. 

It took three months of painstaking pattern-making, cutting leather to size, inlaying tulle, and stitching to the millimeter for almost 80 meters of hemming. 

montagelook1FCsallNB
Photo : Maison Julien Fournié

One of Haute Couture outfit’s secrets is the way in which it will be embodied. It is necessary to find the perfect incarnation of this strong doll, battered by life, but always present fascinating, graceful and intelligent. It could only be Michaela Tomanova, my treasure and my friend. She knows exactly, like an expert, how to wear a garment, show it and give it a soul with great dignity.

les secrets d'un modèle de haute couture
Michaela Tomanova and Julien Fournié backstage Photo : Brioda Savy

Last Haute Couture outfit’s secrets : the makeup and the hairstyle. Nicolas Degennes, this genius alchemist, will make up her skin as little as possible with a transparent alabaster effect. Beige and taupe, with a touch of mother-of-pearl, will give mystery to her upper eyelid and a mouth made with a finger will bring her the required humanity. 

Jack from Nevile Salon, tells me right away about the droid from Blade Runner, played by Daryl Hannah. His hair will be tousled, powdered, airy. It’s a bit like the dolls you get back after two years in the hands of a very young child.

With this model opening the First Creatures fashion show. I hope people will understand my love for humanity.

Photos : Delphine Royer

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